MANILA, PHILIPPINES — The Philippine capital is bursting at the seams with incredible food. As new culinary spots pop up at every corner and food reviews flood social media feeds, the meteoric rise of “foodie culture” has left many inundated, not knowing where to eat. Yet, in the heart of Taft, an area with endless cars and university students frolicking around, lies a buzzing restaurant with customers queueing out the door.
From its viral birria tacos to hearty burritos, El Poco Cantina has become a local pioneer of Mexican food, and adobo Magazine reached out to the restaurant’s Co-founder Richard Ken “Tots” Ramirez over email to learn about his origins and booming business.
In a packed culinary landscape like Manila, El Poco Cantina stands out. It recently hit its five-year mark this September, overcoming many obstacles, and its longevity is a testament to the dedication Tots and his business (and life) partner, Bi Urbino, have always had for cooking.
For Tots, his love for culinary arts sparked in high school, where he discovered animes like Chūka Ichiban! (Cooking Master Boy) and Yakitate!! Japan. He also claimed to have learned most of his skills by helping out his mother and the cook at his family’s small canteen and preparing food for himself late at night.
Tot’s passion was put on the back burner, but his life took a turn when his father got into an accident. “Although the accident was mild, its impact on our lives was tremendous,” Tots wrote. “It made me realize how quickly life can change and take your dreams in a different direction.” This led to him quitting his day job in HR to pursue his first food business venture — Ken Ken Fried Chicken.
Adobo Magazine then asked how El Poco Cantina was birthed, allowing Tots to recall a candid memory during a Laguna trip with Bi. “We stumbled upon a random turtle and whimsically named it Taco, [which] sparked the idea of opening a Mexican shop. The [first] location for El Poco was originally intended to be an extension of Ken Ken Fried Chicken. However, Bi convinced me that serving Mexican food in Taft was better, especially since there were few choices for Mexican cuisine in the area [then].”
A great opportunity awaited Bi at the time, but Tots encouraged her to leave her job and help kickstart the business instead. “Unbeknownst to me, she guided me in making better decisions during the [creation] of El Poco Cantina because we were together most of the time. Our relationship started getting serious from there.”
Their relationship blossomed and so did El Poco. A humble store of 12 square meters and eight seats, El Poco opened its doors in 2019, gradually gaining traction among college students and Taft residents. This initial momentum was cut short when the pandemic hit, but Tots found his stride despite the sudden shift.
“While most commercial businesses were shuttered, our ability to operate from home and maintain an active online presence gave us a significant edge. By prioritizing the community’s well-being over profits, we made a lasting impression.”
The pivot had its challenges, but it was in the struggle that El Poco found its breakthrough. “Since online accessibility was widespread, serving our regular tacos wasn’t enough to stand out.” Recognizing the growing trend of birria (a slow-cooked stew mainly made with goat, beef, or lamb), Tots and Bi developed their spin on the Western Mexican dish, intending for it to become a menu staple.
“When we eventually introduced birria tacos, the strong online support we cultivated helped them become an instant hit, drawing attention from vloggers, celebrities, and other influencers.” The birria tacos became so popular, that it even landed Tots televised features on GMA and News 5.
Fortunately, the two came out on top amid the adversities and have reached new heights since then. Fast forward to two relocations, the restaurant’s main branch has now expanded to Estrada Street.
El Poco is one of countless restaurants in the city, and as entrepreneurs, it’s hard to turn a blind eye to the saturation, but Tots isn’t intimidated by it. “We view competition as essential because it fosters market differentiation and comparison. This dynamic is vital for any industry to thrive, as it keeps the conversation about who [stays] relevant over time.”
He also shared that not losing sight of what’s important is fundamental to staying afloat. “It’s crucial for us to remain consistent with our initial vision and current position. We understand that staying competitive means connecting with the community. The pandemic altered purchasing behaviors, and we’ve adapted by focusing not just on transactions but building meaningful relationships with our customers.”
That community-centric mindset is evident and what keeps El Poco going. “We are just ordinary people [with] struggles in life, but we are blessed to be in a position where we can help others. It’s only right for us to give back whenever possible, especially during times of tragedy.”
A prime example of Tot’s commitment to community was when he and the El Poco team swiftly joined fellow taco restaurant Onlypans in raising funds after the latter’s Poblacion branch burned down earlier this year. “I have personally experienced similar tragedies — once with our home and another time with the second location of El Poco Cantina. Despite being viewed as competitors, I see Audrey and her brand as inspiration. We are examples of how, even without formal culinary training, pursuing a passion in the food industry is possible.”
Like any place, a community cannot exist without a safe haven, and Tots treats El Poco as a home for many. “Our first meaningful connections often occur within our homes, and while mine was not perfect, it was significant. I believe that creating a restaurant involves more than just serving excellent food; it’s about fostering meaningful experiences and connections.”
In discussing the principles behind running his business, he answered, “One of the core values of our establishment is to ‘go beyond.’ We end each briefing with this motto because it reflects my philosophy in life. Whenever you find something that brings you joy, there’s always a deeper meaning to discover. If we remain content with superficial experiences, we’ll never uncover the richness life has to offer.”
Tots continues that state of gratitude by staying grounded, not dwelling on the future of El Poco and the anxieties that come with it. “My goal has remained consistent since the beginning of our journey: to provide opportunities, create connections, deliver exceptional food experiences, and prove to the world that nothing is impossible if you set your mind to it.”
He does, however, picture more El Poco stores around the business districts of Manila soon, starting with the new U-Belt branch which opened on September 10. As Tots “goes beyond” venturing into more opportunities for El Poco, his love for the community expands with it.
That might just be the recipe behind El Poco Cantina’s success: people not only get to enjoy what El Poco Cantina has to offer but also feel the warm embrace with every bite in a loving home they can confide in.
