Words by Adrienne Dy
Illustration by Mika Bacani
What do Dolce and Gabbana, Nike and H&M have in common?
They’ve all embraced “modest fashion,” starting with the simple hijab —the traditional head covering of Muslim women turned religious icon, a sartorial symbol, a political statement and a fashion opportunity, all at once. Together with the abaya, a loose-fitting robe-like dress, it has been featured in recent years by eminent fashion houses and top brand names. The move has gained momentum, but not without stirring debate.
Faith or fashion
“The most fundamental reason for wearing hijab is religious—to follow God’s word, to be identified as a Muslim,” explains Aliah Cimafranca, proud Muslim Filipina and former Lanao Del Norte Representative. “A woman of strong faith does not wear hijab for reasons of tradition and culture. She wears it with strong Islamic conviction and chooses it willingly. Ultimately, wearing hijab is a personal choice.”
Until very recently, though, choice has been limited for the hijabi. Perhaps that’s why the explosion of hijab high fashion on catwalks, and “hijab chic” on sidewalks, have made headlines. Designers started testing the market with capsule Ramadan collections; large clothing companies sent out feelers through hijab-wearing models. Their gamble was positively received, with a growing clamor for more.
The fashion industry has obliged. London hosted the first Modest Fashion Week last February, to critical acclaim. Nike is set to launch Pro Hijab for female Muslim athletes in spring 2018, and up-and-coming models like Mariah Idrissi and Halima Aden are the new darlings of the catwalk.
Modesty or money
Luxury brands are investing seriously in the Muslim market—for what prize? Better company image is important now that inclusion is in vogue, but the numbers also speak. Muslim buying power is quietly outpacing Asian and European counterparts. The market is expected to be worth $484 billion by 2019 according to Reuters, or £226 billion by 2020, according to the State of the Global Islamic Economy.
Lamenting the focus on consumerism, British writer Shelina Janmohamed was quoted by The Telegraph saying, “Muslim fashion is teetering between asserting a Muslim woman’s right to be beautiful and well-turned out, and buying more stuff than you need and being judged by your clothes—both of which are the opposite of Islamic values.”
Sartorial or political
D&G may have embellished the hijab with jewels and lace trims, but the head covering still stands out primarily for its symbolism.
“Fashion has evolved from being an expression of personal style to becoming a way to express political views – a way of saying the unspeakable. A smiling hijabi with social media posts of her travels and gastronomy can be saying ‘Islam is not oppressive’ without actually saying it,” Cimafranca points out.
In today’s divided world, that humble headscarf can either polarize or unify. Such conspicuous clothing can create visual stigma, but social media exposure has the power to sensitize. Mainstream hijab fashion can reverse negative perceptions of Islam, and inspire Muslimahs to celebrate and wear their faith proudly, so to speak.
Inclusion or dilution
Amidst fears that the hijab has been devoured and diluted by Western influences, the hijab may ultimately remain a banner for inclusion.
“Hijab in mainstream fashion, whether for religious or political reasons, can be a springboard for non-Muslims to approach the Muslim way of life in a different light,” says Cimafranca. “‘Inclusive fashion’ opens doors to the unfamiliar, and we strike a balance at the road to understanding and acceptance. Fashion can be a gateway for dialogue.”
This article was published in the adobo magazine Gender 2017 issue.
